A parlay with our driver, Vadym, soon establishes that the only way to reach Borodyanka, a small town once home to 12,000 in northwest Ukraine and occupied by the Russians until only days earlier, was to travel off-road through a few miles of muddy forest and bumpy cow patches. Vadym was unfazed. He could deftly maneuver his way at breakneck speed through snaking rows of concrete barriers and sandbags designed to impede the advance of incoming tanks within the city limits of Kyiv. Those tanks, thankfully, never came. By the time my night train from Lviv had pulled into the capital’s train station, the Russians had completely withdrawn from Kyiv oblast.
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