When I fled Kyiv and arrived with my family in Lviv on the seventh day of Russia’s war against Ukraine, I saw a city that had changed. Many people call Lviv the cultural capital of Ukraine. Before the Russian invasion, about 700,000 people lived here. As in any Eastern European town, life was concentrated around Rynok Square: weekend fairs, festivals, concerts, museums. The city lived in a state of carnival and relaxation. Kyivans liked to come to this city on the weekends to break from the busy capital’s rhythm.
